Hale Mahina

Monday after noon. Not many people are in the water.
Got surf board after work. Drove back from Kailua was over speeding.
I knew waves were there for me(some time I just think so)today.
Paddling out to the line up.
First set was just out side. No body see it.
My first right was shoulder high.
Then next set was shifthing to the little left side.
I'm the first person see set comes. And I knew it shift to the left.
Paddle to the out side left. Every one start following me.
I'm the Rhythm maker today.
Take off, stay keep top till wave is holding up steep and high
enough to start to breaking.Then start drop to the bottom.
Over head.
Next set was almost ate me.
Try take off and side off shore was holding my board higher.
I couldn't drop till wave was just start breaking.
Steeper than last set but I don't wanna wipe out.
Some how I dig rail very long like Kerry slater!?
Wave my fromt was tube so bottom turen.
It was full rail and full speed.I made it. It was first time I dig rail almost nose to tail very long.
That was I talking about surfing.
Like my hero Mike Stuwart, like Kerry Slater, like Tom Curren.
Waves were make my day.Halemahina 38.5
Still learning. And waves are always teach me some thing special.
Mahalo to the ocean.